So London www.solondon.co.uk

The rise and rise of the dog god

From pet, to best friend, to the love of their lives… Catherine Barker finds that even the most thoroughly rational high-flyers worship their canine companions

Financier Ricardo Cerdan is dining with long-time female companion Lulu. They are at the exclusive Athenaeum hotel in Piccadilly and have chosen a discreet table in an empty corner of the restaurant. They want to be left alone. Lulu stares into Ricardo’s eyes. He stares back. They say nothing. They don’t have to. Ricardo leans over and kisses her. Another diner looks over and smiles. The waiter arrives before the petting gets too heavy. They order: chateaubriand for him, meatballs for her.

By the time the food arrives, they are starving and Lulu can contain herself no longer. She jumps out of her chair and devours her meatballs on the floor. Ricardo doesn’t bat an eyelid, even as Lulu licks her plate clean.

Lulu, of course, is a dog. A Norwich terrier, to be exact. She is always at the side of her owner, a 63-year-old partner at a wealth-management firm. ‘I take her everywhere, even the office and dog-friendly restaurants such as Lundum’s on Old Brompton Road,’ says Ricardo.

If all this sounds far-fetched, or at least the kind of indulgence one only sees in America, think again. Pets as child, partner, parent and friend substitutes are nothing new. Everyone from Sigmund Freud to George Eliot has pronounced on the matter. As Milan Kundera put it: ‘Dogs are our link to paradise. They don’t know evil or jealousy or discontent. To sit with a dog on a hillside on a glorious afternoon is to be back in Eden, where doing nothing was not boring – it was peace.’

Admittedly, we have not quite caught up with our friends across the pond when it comes to pet boutiques, grooming parlours and doggie day-care centres. In New York pet pampering has run rampant, and small dogs in particular are cosseted in designer jumpers and footwear. There are luxury hotels like the Ritzy Canine Carriage House (Ritzycaninecarriagehouse.com), which features orthopaedic beds, a rooftop garden and its own chef-approved pet menu; doga (dog yoga) classes; and indoor, dog-only swimming pools. There’s even a craze for new hybrids like the labradoodle and cockapoo. At the annual Dog Sale last year at Bonhams, a painting called New Forest Hounds by English artist John Emms went for $842,250 (£437,000). The buyer said it reminded him of his own dog.

Back in London we might not be quite so extravagant, but we are lavishing care on our dogs in ways we’d have been ashamed to admit a few years ago. According to the Yellow Pages, dog-pampering services in the UK have increased by a whopping 93 per cent since 2001. About 44 per cent of British dog-owners routinely take their pets to specialist grooming parlours. And 38 per cent of Londoners admit to loving their dogs more than their relatives, although it is suspected by some that the true figure might be even higher.

Andrew Nicolls, 43, who works in financial PR, has two dogs. Oscar, a Bedlington terrier, and Clive, a miniature wire-haired dachshund, are looked after by a housekeeper, a dog walker, and even an au pair who tends to them in France, where Andrew holidays with his 45 year-old partner, Ted Wilson.

Andrew admits the day-care arrangements, not to mention the costs of haircuts and top-notch food and healthcare, are ‘a little bit excessive’. But these two dogs are more than just beloved pets; they are something of a child substitute. This is how Andrew and Ted account for the £585 fee they spend on a week at the Dog House in Carmarthenshire (Thedoghouseonline.co.uk), where the dogs often sojourn when their ‘parents’ are away. ‘The dogs definitely did change our lives and give us focus,’ effuses Andrew. ‘They do cost quite a lot of money, but we don’t have to pay school fees. It’s not the same responsibility as having a child, but it’s a responsibility nonetheless.’ Even Andrew is beginning to baulk at Dog House prices, though. ‘It’s become far too glamorous and expensive. It’s where all the footballers’ dogs go now,’ he says sniffily.

Other Londoners are less restrained. Harrods has responded to the burgeoning demand for canine couture with an annual fashion show called Pet-a-Porter, bringing high-end, made-to-order dog fashion to the catwalk. Last year’s event featured lines from Ben de Lisi and Vivienne Westwood, among others. Harrods also played host to a marriage between an eight-month-old shih-tzu called Muffin and a two-and-a-half-year-old bichon frise called Timmy, who entered into a state of ‘muttrimony’ last year at an estimated cost of £3,500. Muffin arrived in a horse-drawn carriage wearing a full white dress and veil.

As designers fall over themselves to offer luxury items online – Pucci (Puccipetwear.com) and Pets and the City (Petsandthecity.co.uk) are just two of a rapidly expanding crowd – the clamour for doggie daywear has spawned a line of ‘rebel’ pet wear for the cooler, more radical pooch. Natalie Clark, who launched Growler Couture (Growlercouture.com) in December 2006, saw a gap in the market for fashion that is more tongue-in-cheek than Burberry chic.

‘I thought everything out there was all pink and fluffy,’ she says. ‘There was nothing butch for the rebel dog.’ Her answer was a line of London-made, high-quality designs, including a leather angel jacket at £270 and a punk kilt at £190, aimed at clients who already indulge their pets in every way imaginable. ‘I see my brand as taking the current trend one step further,’ she says. ‘The people I’m targeting are loaded. Their dogs have everything they want, and it doesn’t stop at couture. There’s no limit to their spending. This industry is going to boom, without a doubt. What we’re seeing now is just the start. I think in about 10 years’ time we’ll be where New York is.’

Natalie’s comments are echoed by Carmen de la Puig Bellacasa, the owner of chihuahua Snappy. Carmen, originally from Washington DC, recently opened pet boutique and grooming parlour Waggin’ Tails (Waggintailsonline.com) just a stone’s throw from Stamford Bridge football ground in Chelsea, catering to customers who happily spend hundreds of pounds in one visit. She stocks a range of pet wear and accessories, including Swarovski crystal-studded collars and pet strollers – the pooch-carrier of choice. ‘The business is doing really well, phenomenally well,’ she says. ‘The demand is definitely there, though tastes are different to New York or LA. The British prefer items that look more serious. They’re just as expensive, but less glitzy.’

Felipe Calderon, an executive with search engine firm Google, and his wife Caroline spent £3,000 bringing four-and-a-half-year-old Dalmatian Chimu, to London from Chicago. And they are still shelling out. ‘I buy donut beds with washable covers from the USA and have them shipped over,’ Caroline says. ‘We also go to Ikea for new pillows, which he loves.’

Despite our resistance to tack and bling, we Brits are softening to the idea of fashionable pet furniture. Increasing numbers of London pooches now sleep in their owner’s bedroom or in the lounge, creating a need for stylish beds and cushions that complement existing decor. Wowbow in Stephendale (Wowbow.co.uk) offers handmade Perspex beds and dining tables with matching suede cushions; a reaction to the abundance of products covered in tartan and paw prints – terribly last century.

Alongside dog carriers and canine artwork, Carmen offers reflexology sessions at £75 an hour. The idea of a therapy for dogs that is not yet mainstream among humans might raise some eyebrows, but practitioners believe it is a natural extension of the homeopathy treatments already on the market. Richard Allport, who set up the Natural Medicine Centre for animals (Naturalmedicinecentre.net), has witnessed a marked rise in the numbers of dog owners interested in alternative medicine for their pets. ‘Dog owners are now interested in the entire lifestyle,’ Allport says. ‘Most of my treatments are focused on homeopathy and acupuncture, but herbal supplements, dietary advice and so on are also popular. My clients want all-round wellbeing for their pets.’

Ricardo Cerdan is a believer in alternative treatments. When Lulu suffered a recurring infection of the cervix, she was treated with a combination of acupuncture and medication. Even if you think reflexology is conventional, prepare yourself for the spread of pet plastic surgery, which has already arrived in London in the form of Neuticles: fake testicles surgically implanted after neutering to enhance a dog’s self-esteem after the trauma of surgery. It’s a clear step towards fully ‘humanizing’ dogs. Some companies are so attuned to the demands of doting owners that they have introduced ‘peternity’ policies, giving staff paid leave to care for ill dogs and cats, or to take them to the vet. Other businesses such as Halifax and Bank of Scotland allow staff to take time off work to tend to sick pets as long as they organize cover.

Londoners’ growing desire to pamper their pets may seem like a harmless, albeit costly and, arguably, frivolous development. But the spectacle and newfound glamour mirrors an altogether more sinister trend. As dogs become more prized and valuable, they are more vulnerable to dognapping, with owners going to increasing lengths to protect their animals.

Nik Oakley is the PR advisor for Doglost (Doglost.co.uk), an online community and support system for victims of dog theft. Nik believes dogs are often stolen to order, with Staffordshire terriers, Weimaramas and lurchers being particular favourites. Puppies are key targets, since they can be trained while they are still young, she says. Metropolitan Police figures show a 74 per cent rise in the number of dogs stolen in the London area last year. Of the 417 dogs taken in 2006, about 35 a month were Stafford bull terriers.

The phenomenon has led dog walker Mary Hall to customize a fleet of dognap-proof vans (at a cost of £3,500 each) with air conditioning rather than air vents through which potential thieves could break in. Vets recommend that owners write only their phone numbers on dog tags to prevent thieves learning a dog’s name and luring it into a waiting van.

The emotional bond between man and dog runs deep and, for many owners, dog theft really is like a member of the family being snatched. Yet, many victims feel that the police won’t act until they are absolutely certain a theft has taken place. Furthermore, ‘they treat it like having a DVD player stolen,’ says Nik.

Of course, dogs also have the potential to nurture bonding among humans – something not lost on New Yorkers. ‘I have been seriously thinking of faking having a dog,’ says Tanya Jack, a banker. ‘Have you seen the dog walkers in the park? Utmost dating potential.’ Some singletons have been known to borrow their friends’ pooches and hightail it to the dog runs scattered all over the city. They make great pick-up spots and the compatibility test is done for you because the dogs choose, not the owners. A miniature dachshund is unlikely to start frolicking with a bloodhound. A Boston terrier, however, may just stand a chance. Then again, every once in a while opposites attract and fall in love.

It all sounds so familiar and it is far cheaper than a dating agency – well, just.

Carmen de la Puig Bellacasa, Waggin’ Tails boutique & Snappy (7 months)
At Carmen’s Chelsea pet boutique, Waggin’ Tails, services range from a paw pedicure with soothing paw balm and massage (£12), to ear cleaning, plucking and trim (£7), and reflexology (£75 for an hour) with Andrea Hurst, of Nicky Clarke’s (human) hair salon , Mayfair.

Andrew Nicolls, deputy MD, Penrose Financial PR, Oscar (5) & Clive (2)
Andrew Nicolls lives with his partner Ted and their extended family, Clive, a miniature wire-haired dachshund (left), and Oscar, a Bedlington terrier. They moved home because Oscar and Clive hated living in Lord Foster’s Albion Riverside building in Battersea. Says Andrew: ‘They used to look out of the window and despair.’